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Persistence of ethnic dress traditions in contemporary society: an interpretive study of Germany's Black Forest Trachten

Date

2014

Authors

Hughes, Amy Sue, author
Ogle, Jennifer P., advisor
Torntore, Susan J., advisor
Sparks, Diane C., committee member
Hunt, Irmgard E., committee member

Journal Title

Journal ISSN

Volume Title

Abstract

The ethnic dress of Germany's Black Forest, called Tracht, dates back to the 16th century and has historically been worn by rural inhabitants for social and religious occasions. Although most people living within the Black Forest do not presently wear Trachten (plural for Tracht), some persistence in this tradition exists. Thus, the purpose of this interpretive inquiry was to explore the factors that have supported the persistence of Trachten tradition, specifically related to the wearing and crafting of Trachten by women, in a contemporary society. The work was informed by theory proposing that ethnic dress is not static, but rather, changes across space and time in ways that enable its persistence. A qualitative, ethnographic approach was adopted. During her immersion in the field, the researcher conducted extensive observations to "develop an insider's view" (Genzuk, 2003, p. 2) of the Trachten tradition. Formal interviews were conducted with 10 individuals: eight adult female Trachten wearers, six of whom also were Trachten handcrafters, and two local Trachten experts. Numerous informal interviews with Trachten wearers and experts rounded out the data set. Data were analyzed using constant comparison processes. Analyses revealed that the maintenance of the Trachten tradition was linked to varied factors that revolved around the overarching themes of both persistence and change for wearers and handcrafters. More specifically, findings revealed that the persistence of the Trachten tradition could be linked to three factors: (a) formalized practice, (b) meaningful identities, and (c) desires to preserve and promote local culture. Additionally, the persistence of the Trachten tradition was further supported by change in the tradition, which was characterized by two factors: (a) Trachten as a "lived practice" and (b) the negotiation of Trachten authenticity. Thus, although, in some ways, Tracthen wearing and crafting were bound by traditions of the past, they also constituted a lived practice that reflected the incorporation of changes related to technological, social, and cultural patterns of contemporary life. Moreover, participants located relevant meanings (e.g., cultural identity, heritage, Heimat, authenticity) in their Trachten and related practices, thereby illuminating the role of such meanings in promoting the persistence of cultural traditions within a context of change. It is through these incorporations of the contemporary with the traditional that Trachten have remained relevant. As such, findings provided support for the proposition that ethnic dress may change in ways that actually enable its persistence.

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Subject

Trachten
Black Forest
Germany
ethnic dress

Citation

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